Things to know about denim from B like bale to W like washing

Bale

A fabric bale is a packaging form for a fabric web, which is usually between 10 and 15 metres long. In contrast to the roll, the fabric is folded in half and rolled onto a cardboard cartridge that is about 70 cm wide. Fabric bales are handy, easy to transport and store. They are often sold in wholesale.

Batch

In production, a batch refers to a fixed quantity of a product that is produced under identical conditions. In the context of fabrics, especially denim, a batch refers to a specific quantity of denim fabric that is produced under the same production conditions.

Each batch may have differences in colour, texture, fabric width, or weight, even if the differences are minimal. The more processes a fabric undergoes, the more likely there is to be a difference between different batches. For example, if denim is bleached with oxygen, the initial colour, the bleach formula, the temperature, and the process duration all affect the result.

For this reason, you may find a date indication on my fabrics when and how the currently available batch has changed.

Chambray

Chambray is a lightweight fabric often used for summer clothing and is similar to denim. Chambray typically has lighter, shinier, and smoother fibres than denim, making it excellent for summer clothing.

Colour Transfer

Due to its typical dyeing process with coating dyeing, denim fabric may initially transfer colour – even if it is pre-washed. The darker the denim fabric, the more colour it can naturally release. However, there are remedies if denim strongly transfers colour. For example, you can fix the indigo in a vinegar bath.

Denim

Denim is a robust cotton fabric that is mostly used for jeans trousers. The name comes from the French city of Nîmes, where the fabric was originally produced. Denim has a characteristic weave that creates a diagonal ribbed structure.

The typical blue colour of denim comes from a dyeing process in which only the warp threads are dyed with indigo, while the weft threads remain white. This creates a mottled effect that fades over time, giving denim its vintage look.

Finish

Finish is a process that improves the surface and properties of textiles, as well as materials like paper or leather. For example, a finish can make a fabric water-repellent, glossy, wrinkle-free, firmer, or softer. Finishing can be done chemically or mechanically by pressure and is usually applied after dyeing.

When using fabric, it is therefore advisable to wash the fabric before cutting it. This washes out the finish and the fabric takes on its final size. Because it is not only denim that usually shrinks the first time it is washed!

Jacquard

Jacquard refers to a complex weave pattern created by using special weaving machines.

Jeans

Jeans are trousers made from a blue cotton fabric called denim, which is dyed with indigo. Jeans were invented in the 19th century by Levi Strauss and Jacob Davis, who reinforced the pockets of the trousers with rivets.

Jeans were originally workwear for American gold miners and workers but later became a symbol of youth culture and the American lifestyle. Jeans were named after the French name of the Italian city of Genoa (Gênes), from where the fabric came to America.

Jeans Fabric

Colloquial term for denim. Jeans originally referred to the type of trousers.

Lyocell

Lyocell is an environmentally friendly fibre obtained from cellulose. See Tencel

Mercerisation

In mercerisation, the cotton fibres are refined, making them more tear-resistant and shinier than untreated cotton. For this reason, mercerised cotton is more expensive than simple cotton fabrics.

Plain Weave

Plain weave is a simple and firm weave that has evolved from braiding. The warp and weft threads alternately run over and under each other. The top and bottom of the fabric look the same. Plain weave is used for various fabrics such as batiste, taffeta, cloth, or calico.

Pre-wash: Why should you pre-wash denim?

Pre-washing denim fabric is important to avoid the fabric shrinking or transferring colour during the first wash after sewing. Denim fabric usually consists of cotton or a cotton blend, which contracts when washed. So, if denim is not pre-washed, it can happen that the sewn piece shrinks after the first wash and then becomes too small and/or too short.In addition, denim fabric can lose its colour and discolour other garments or furniture. Therefore, denim fabric should always be washed separately and at a maximum of 30 degrees.

Poplin

All poplin in my shop is made of mercerised cotton. Poplin is made in a plain weave, with the warp threads being firmer than the weft threads. This gives the fabric a fine, ribbed texture. Through mercerisation, poplin is more resistant than cotton but is just as light and breathable. In addition, poplin has a slight shine.

Raw Denim

Raw denim is a firm, stiff, and unwashed denim fabric that is dyed with indigo. Indigo is a deep blue dye that is just above violet in the colour scale. Raw denim is also called dry denim and is the base material of all denim fabrics. Raw denim develops its individuality by wearing it without washing. This creates typical signs of wear on the heavily stressed areas, while the rest of the trousers remain dark blue. Raw denim is suitable for purists and individualists who want to have an authentic and unique pair of jeans.

Roll

When fabric is wound into a roll, it is not folded, unlike a bale. The roll thus consists of a long piece of fabric, which is often wound around a sturdy cardboard roll. Fabric rolls are often used for storing or transporting fabrics because they save space and prevent creases.

Selvedge Denim

Selvedge Denim bezieht sich auf die Webkante des Stoffs. Bei diesem Denim-Typ wird der Stoff auf alten Webstühlen gewebt, die eine engere und festere Kante (die sogenannte "Selvedge") hinterlassen. Dieser Streifen sieht oft aus wie ein weißer Rand mit einem farbigen Streifen in der Mitte, der sichtbar wird, wenn der Denim umgeschlagen ist.

Shrinkage

Shrinkage indicates the percentage by which a fabric shrinks during the first wash. Shrinkage can vary depending on the material and processing of the fabric. For this reason, fabric should be pre-washed so that it shrinks to its final size before processing and any existing finish is washed out.

Tencel

Tencel is a brand of lyocell. This fantastic fibre has many advantages: due to its smooth surface, it is soft and shiny, breathable, and absorbs moisture very well. In addition, the fibre is biodegradable, unlike synthetic fibres. Tencel is ideal for clothing, bedding, towels, and much more.

Tencel is obtained from natural materials such as wood. More specifically, it is made from cellulose, which is a natural component of plants and trees. This is dissolved in an organic solvent and spun into fibres. The innovative production is environmentally friendly because it uses less water and energy than other methods. In addition, the solvent can be reused.

Twill

Twill is another term for twill weave, especially in relation to denim fabrics.

Twill Weave

Twill weave is a type of fabric weave that creates diagonal lines on the surface of the fabric. These lines are called twill ribs and are created by shifting the binding points of the warp and weft threads. There are different types of twill weave, depending on how the warp and weft threads are interwoven. For example, there is denim, tweed, or herringbone. Twill weave can have different properties depending on the thread density and material, such as durability, softness, or thermal insulation.

Washes

Washes make jeans softer, and depending on the number of washes, their colour becomes lighter. There are different names for the fabric, depending on the wash.